From Maringá to São João Del Rey

Saturday, May 6th, 2006
The first day I got to Rio, I bought two guides. A Guia Cartoplam of Brazilian Roadways, and the "Isto é" Map and Guide of the Institute of the Estrada Royal (Royal Pathway), they worked very well and were an accurate source of information of any roadway. The road signs on the other hand, are either non-existent or when they do exist, they are 80% reliable. The wonderful thing is that people are more than willing to give directions, and the directions are good too!
There is no mapquest or other free mapping service on the internet in Brazil. Mapping services are paid for. In that case we opted for a handy guide, which can be purchased at any newsstand or book shop.
Our route would be: Bocaina de Minas, Liberdade, Arantina, Andrelândia, São Vicente de Minas, Madre de Deus, Rio das Mortes, São João del Rey and finally Tiradentes. The last two towns are part of the "Caminho Real", which brought diamonds and gold from the State of Minas Gerais (General Mines) into the ports of Paraty and Rio de Janeiro to be shipped to the coffers of the Portuguese Monarchy.
The roadways were in good shape and there were practically no cars or tolls. The most dangerous things on the roads are people, animals and trucks. People, including families with children and animals cross highways with heavy traffic! Truck drivers are overworked and very resentful of passenger cars it seems.
The road trip all the way until São João del Rey was basically about breathtaking scenery. Endless horizons of Mountains. Small villages, one in particular called Andrelândia looked specially well taken care of and prosperous. It was surrounded by beautifully organized and cared for plantations and horse farms. It is the area where breeders of the Mangalarga Marchador das Gerais is located.
We stopped only in Bocaina de Minas for breakfast. We left before breakfast time at the farm/Inn. I was worried about driving into the night, but trip did not take that long, about 5 to 6 hours. The entrance into SJ del Rey is quite disappointing. The town seems plagued with ill-kept, unfinished dwellings. Not poverty, per se, but somewhat poor and dirty. Unlike the town I had visited in the mid eighty's, which was a unique historic town, clean and empty. Alex asked me: "Why on earth would you decide to come here?".
The people in charge of the town had taken away its character and incorporated in it horrendous ill conceived block buildings, taller than the historic buildings. There was no city planning at all. There is a historic part of town where the historic baroque architecture is lost and unprotected. I don't understand why there is no public outcry!
I also found out that the inn I had made a reservation at was very far away from restaurants and etc.
The good thing is that there are guides holding city credentials hanging around town. For a fee or a day rate, they will take you places. Yes, it is kind of a tourist trap. Maybe the guy gets a percentage from, lets say sales of a gift item in a gift shop he takes you to. I think thats pretty fair, not like the U$6.00 popcorn at the movies in america.
We got a guide called Reginaldo. He got us another hotel, in a nice secluded area for U$4O a night. (We were leaving next morning to the visit one of the properties we were interested in buying). He took us sight-seeing in town, to the Steam-engine ride into Tiradentes and back.
We visited the main Churches that date from as early as 1721. The Church buildings are very well preserved. I wish there was more historical information available. They are functioning churches, as well as historical monuments, therefore the Catholic Church must have control over what information gets to the public about those churches, their influence and true history.
There is also not enough history from a slave's perspective or from the brasilian Pioneer or Conspirator (Inconfidente) perspective.
In Tiradentes, he got us a deal on the buggy and took us sight-seeing. He recited the history of the area very wel. He must have had to complete some kind of city course in order to get his credentials as a guide. He did a fine job. He charged us something like $25. I don't think I would have had the energy to figure every thing out in one day and get it executed without the help of Reginaldo.
The Steam-Engine ride was a real treat! Tiradentes is a touristy town, but cute. A little too much for Alex and I. Young people and teenagers must have a blast there. It's a bubbling antique town where everyone walks about and visits little craft shops and bars. I heard Carnaval in Tiradentes is one of the best in Brasil. My recommendation: stay in Tiradentes and visit São João del Rey for the day!
After our gourmet excesses in the village of Maringá, we decided to go for cheap. We had regular Mineiro (person from Minas) fare - feijão tropeiro com lombo, torresminho, couve e batata frita (trooper beans with pork tenderloin, fried pork grinds, collard greens and fries). U$12 for two!
Buy the time we got back to the hotel we were beat! The room had like 4 beds in it! The TV was really crapy, although I watched an intellectual TV station artsy film noir about Nietzche's life in Venice. It put me to sleep right away! Click here to see Photos and slide-show.